Sophie Ibbotson, an experienced tourism expert, will now be sharing her expertise as a author to our website. In her first article, Sophie highlights must-visit places for any traveler to the capital of Uzbekistan.
Tashkent is the best-connected city in Uzbekistan, with direct flights to many of the world’s greatest cities: London, Milan, Moscow, New Delhi, New York, Paris, Tbilisi…. the list goes on. Why then do so few foreign tourists see Uzbekistan’s capital as a city break destination? Far too many visitors just transit through Tashkent, skipping over its many attractions in their rush to get to Samarkand and Bukhara.
I first visited Tashkent in 2010, and it was not the same city it is today. Even then, Tashkent had its charms, the State Museum of History and the Alisher Navoi Opera and Ballet Theatre amongst them. Nearly 15 years on, however, Tashkent has really upped its game, with not only impressive cultural attractions but also world-class hotels and restaurants, shopping opportunities, and events. Whenever I visit Uzbekistan now I try to add a few days onto the start or end of my trip so that I can meet friends and enjoy the city, with everything it has to offer. These are a few of my favourite places to go, places to stay and places to eat.
Accommodation is usually first on the list whenever someone plans a trip. Tashkent today has options for every budget, but my go-to is ATECA Hotel Suites, just back from Shota Rustaveli. This is where I stay whenever I book my own hotel. It’s more competitively priced than the international brand hotels, the rooms are large and comfortable, and the staff are on the ball. ATECA is also in a very convenient location, so I can get quickly and easily wherever I need to go.
Hosting first-time visitors to Tashkent, there are always three places where I take people in the city: the State Museum of Applied Arts, Tashkent Metro, and Chorsu Bazaar. A tour of the museum — which I believe has the most beautiful building anywhere in Tashkent — helps provide cultural context for the ceramics, wood carving, and textiles my guests will see elsewhere as they travel across Uzbekistan. A short trip on Tashkent Metro, taking in stations including Alisher Navoi, Kosmonaut, and Pakhtakhor, is a reminder that Uzbekistan’s creativity is not limited to the medieval period, but continues to the present day. It is also a cheap and efficient way to get around. And Chorsu is unmissable, because it epitomises the vibrant trade of the historic Silk Road and at the same time showcases Uzbekistan’s fantastic agricultural produce. Seeing the fat, sweet cherries, strawberries, and apricots, I am like a child in a sweet shop, but if I am honest, it is the freshly baked non in the bakery that is my real weakness. I could happily eat that bread and nothing else all day!
When guests have longer to spend in Tashkent, or are paying a subsequent visit, I like to introduce them to the State Museums of Fine Arts and of History, two excellent examples of Tashkent Modernism, a very underappreciated architectural style. You can see this form of Brutalism in the facade of Hotel Uzbekistan, and in many of the mosaic-clad apartment blocks, too. If the day is not too hot, it is well worth taking a walking tour with Curly Girl Tours Uzbekistan, or even jumping on an open top bus tour, as the input of a knowledgeable local guide really enhances your urban exploring. It is lovely to wander through a park such as Eco Park and Tashkent Botanical Garden, resting in the shade of the trees, and the path which runs alongside the Anhor Canal is also great for a stroll.
Eating and drinking is always a critical component of any travel experience, especially when you are visiting a city as proud of its gastronomy as Tashkent. The city’s food scene is very much a reflection of its culturally diverse population, and as more and more people develop a taste for eating out, there is scarcely a national cuisine you can’t find. For Uzbek food, your first stop should probably be the street food stands at Chorsu Bazaar, where shashkik — meat kebabs, sizzle on the grill and samsa — baked pastries akin to Indian samosas, are served piping hot from the oven. Caravan is better in the evening, however, as is Khan Chapan, and if I am looking for fine dining, still with national dishes, Afsona never disappoints.
Variety is the spice of life, however, so I don’t limit myself to just Uzbek cuisine. One night I might eat Georgian food at Gruzinskiy Dvorik or Gamarjoba. The best Lebanese food in Tashkent is on the menu at Resto Forn Lebnen, and Tub Tim Thai Restaurant has excellent Thai dishes. Tashkent has a large Korean population, so if you are feeling in the mood for bibimbap kimchi, Restaurant Seoul has you covered. The Irish Pub does a passable fish and chips, but to enjoy a beer with a livelier atmosphere and a younger crowd I tend to go to Steam Bar instead.
If you are in the mood for shopping, Tashkent has a great deal to offer, though you can skip the outlets for international brands. At the weekends, it is incredibly rewarding to go rummaging through the stalls at Yangiabad Bazaar, the capital’s most expansive flea market. There are a lot of vintage items here, including Soviet-era watches, cameras, and ceramics, paintings, and hand-woven carpets. The people watching is superb, too.
It is a rather more tranquil experience to pop into Human House, run by the unparalleled Lola Sayfi. Here you will find a beautifully curated section of clothing and homeware made by Uzbekistan’s best artisans. Lola and her team often organises events in the courtyard of the store, including workshops and live music, so do check the schedule. It’s a lovely place to stop for a cup of tea and a snack after a busy day of sightseeing as well.
Uzbekistan’s reputation for textiles production stretches back to antiquity, but a new generation of designers and makers is making its mark on Tashkent’s fashion scene. Visa Fashion Week Tashkent is the biggest event on the fashion calendar, but throughout the year you can find incredible clothing and accessories in many of the city’s boutiques. I regularly pay a visit to Teplo Store, which has collections from many of Uzbekistan’s top designers, and at the same time pop into the Hlmrdv Gallery around the corner. If you are looking to splurge on a show-stopping outfit, something from the Azucar Moreno Boutique will probably fit the bill. Kanishka Dsgn has uber cool street wear, and also well-made bags and other accessories.
