Beyond the dazzling modern facade of white marble, Ashgabat conceals pockets of historic ambiance where the city’s deeper narrative unfolds. These neighborhoods offer an immersive glimpse into the capital’s Soviet-era and pre-Soviet heritage — quiet alleys, modest stone homes, and evocative public buildings.
Köpetdag District
Located at the city’s heart, this district hosts well-preserved mid-20th-century institutional and residential architecture. Examples of Soviet Stalinist neoclassicism — such as the old Railway Station, the Mollanepes Theatre, and Turkmen State University buildings — line its broad avenues. Their stucco façades, porticos, and tiled detailing are ideal for architectural enthusiasts seeking stately yet human-scale walking routes.
Bagyr
On the western outskirts, the Bagyr neighborhood offers a rural-urban transition marked by the remains of Kulmergen Kala fortress and the medieval Shikh Alou Mausoleum. Though these structures lie just outside central Ashgabat, the area retains traditional adobe housing, garden plots, and a slower pace — ideal for contemplative strolls.
Area Around the Gulistan Bazaar
The district surrounding the covered Gulistan Bazaar — constructed in 1972-82 — combines Soviet-era modernism with local urbanism. Mosaic reliefs and sculptural details within the bazaar create an atmospheric backdrop, while adjacent streets feature courtyard apartment blocks reminiscent of 1960s communal housing.
Working-Class Neighborhood by the Railway and Childukhun
West of the old Railway Station, the pre-2000s residential sprawl affords glimpses of utilitarian brick homes, modest workshops, and communal squares. This area evokes everyday Ashgabat life before the marble overhaul — unpolished, authentic, and alive.
Turkmen State University Environs
East of the university, you’ll find quiet streets shaded by mature trees, flanked by modest Soviet-era faculty residences. These low-rise buildings — many with patterned concrete balconies — offer a tranquil stroll and a view of student life unfolding amid understated architecture.
Bagtyýarlyk Etrap
Bordering Archabil Avenue, the Bagtyýarlyk district is a residential suburb blending mid-century panel apartment blocks with evolving private homes. It’s less touristed but notable for its lived-in ambiance: fruit trees, painted window frames, and narrow lanes lined with single-storey houses. A walk here connects modern life and communal heritage, giving a true sense of Ashgabat’s social layering